Monday, April 12, 2010

Raf Simons

Following last seasons sartorially exquisite suits, Raf Simons had a tough act to follow. Building on the theme of restrained tailoring, he presented another well conceived collection that had strong military influences. Offering a long and looser silhouette, the Belgian designer placed emphasis on the shoulders and the pulled-in waist. The key component to the collection was the belt which was worn high around the waist over suits, waistcoats, short jackets and long coats. Ideas used last season were reworked such as coats with contrasting sleeve combinations and a refined color palette of khaki, gray, black and white. Rounded shoulders became more significant in short sleeve tops and multi zips become decorative detailing on bomber jackets. A serpent print was utilised on white pants and also on see-through tops which gave the collection an energizing lift. Simons' shows are always a highlight of the Paris menswear schedule and the designer is considered an arbitrator of the current and future trends in menswear. He has moved away from overtly conceptual collections and has refined his design vision to offer clothes that are commercially viable and plausible in stringent economic times. The collection although wonderfully enviable, did in parts seem more in tune with a winter collection. However Simons has an army of fans who will be eager to kit up in his military enthused attire and will certainly be belting up this summer.














































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