Tuesday, April 13, 2010

Dries van Noten

On entering the Dries Van Noten show, the bubble-wrap invitations were ceremoniously cut up and returned to guests to be used as make shift seats. The plan was to view the show from the steps of Palais Brongniart. However due to a dramatic heavy rain shower, the audience were forced to decamp to the safety of the peristyle. As the show was about to begin a drive by white van, complete with blaring sound system, pulled up outside the venue and provided up-tempo tunes for the proceedings. DvN has an innate knack in delivering entertaining presentations that lift the spirits of those at the shows and this addition seemed to hit the spot. Humor is key to Dries van Noten's communication and he delivers this both in his original concepts, food (mojito flavor ice cream today) and through his beautifully considered clothes. The collection returned to his signature use of prints and his relaxed approach to dressing. Moving away from the sharp and dynamic collection from last season, DvN was offering double-breasted suit jackets worn with printed baggy pants and a sumptuous medley of wearable casual garments. Mixing fabrics and patterns in muted tones, is intrinsically part of DvN's style, and he returned to this with ease. The neat silhouettes in this collection retains a modern sensibility for the clothes and the aesthetics is both modest and appealingly slouchy. Playful and perfectly formed, this season's collection reflects the best of contemporary menswear -clothes that are enviable and simultaneously accessible for a variety of ages. As Dries van Noten took his bow at the end of the show, a huge crackle of thunder recognised his heavenly influence over modern menswear. Another well judged and beautifully executed collection. Very simple, very chic.

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